Stealth ”Denim” Jacket: Tales of the Old Earth

(i.e. the previous millennium, the mid-90s)

An unconventional project for the time, though I’ve done many variations on the theme since.

This engineer was routinely sent by his company to liaise with businesses around Europe. Though he was given a hefty per diem, he preferred to hike around the back country and stay in hostels.

He needed an easy-care jacket in the style of a wool blazer “that would get him past the maître d’ at good restaurants.”
Though it looks and feels like denim (not plastic), the fabric is a hard-finish, machine-washable double knit that doesn’t wrinkle (I have a pair of jeans from it still going strong decades on – as soon as I saw and touched it, I bought the bolt).

Though nothing is a guarantee against pickpockets in a crowd, we made it as difficult for them as we could.

To save weight and bulk, the jacket was unlined. Instead, the entire length of fabric was fused with abrasion-resistant woven interfacing.

Pockets had to look ordinary but open only to the inside, so the welts were made backwards from standard practice.

Views from the inside and outside before the pockets were added.

They were sewn directly above the slits from the right side, and turned down into place before topstitching.

To save weight and bulk, the jacket was unlined. I was unable to talk him into a slight shoulder pad, but other than that, both of us were satisfied with the result.

He rolled it up and stuffed it into his duffle. When he needed it, he shook it out and put it on.

After his next trip, he reported back: very pleased.