Sarah Wagner’s Landgirlcore Pants, broken down into (most of the) steps, and then showing how to modify it for another figure.
Compilation:
Next is to collect the support drawings and layer them into Procreate (iOS version of GIMP/Photoshop graphics manipulation programs)
This recent image with the glorious full bottom (even more bounteous with her shirt stuffed in – you have to ask your client how they’ll wear the garment) is close, so started with that. There are even the same number of back darts (though released, not sewn), so it was meant, Khaleesi.
I lightened previous images so that I could see them while drawing over them.
She mentions putting elastic in the hems, so I’ve given casings for two rows each.
Her pelvis is broader then the one in my original drawing.
The patch pocket is one piece bridging the side seam. It looks to me as is it’s restitched vertically there to divide in two. This keeps tools from sliding around. She could add another vertical seam on one side for secaturs or any other tool she uses often. I have built knife pockets that had internal patches of leather so they didn’t poke through.
A placket has been added to the back side seam, and the waistband (arching wider across the back) pieces added.
This, though still rough, is enough to start work on the “real drawing”.
Front waistband, cut 2 on fold. Registration marks line up with tops of darts.
Patch pocket, cut two (they span each side seam and are stitched vertically through them).
Back waistband, cut 2 on fold. Registration marks line up with tops of darts.
Front, cut 2.*
Front facing, cut 2 (stabilizes buttonholes).**
Back, cut 2.
Back placket facing, cut 2 (supports weight of buttons).
* Why are the facings cut on straight of grain rather than matching? For stabilization. Couture often does this; the industry usually doesn’t bother.
** These are released darts: fold them to the sides and pin in place (do not sew their legs). Catch them when the waistband is sewn on. Leaving them open rather than sewn is a design decision.
Let’s look at the same pattern using a pants block for a different body. The Burda Balloon Pants (left) did have a waistband, belt loops, and hem facings. Sarah’s pattern is on the right.
Design modified using AerieIris’ pants block, left, and Sarah’s pants block, right:
Seam allowances were taken off. The front released pleat was changed to a dart. The legs were straightened; two rows of elastic added with a self-hem. The waistbands’ proportions/lengths were altered.