How do we figure yardage requirements, holding a bolt of fabric with no pattern in hand?
https://carolkimball.net/carlees-dress-design-pattern-work-up/
First, some basics:
Larger bodies are used for most examples but these apply universally. Pattern pieces for fuller figures can be wider than the available fabric. Larger pieces can be narrowed with dart manipulation (see below) or split, such as in this princess pattern.
The grainline shifts on the new side front pieces so that it hangs vertically when worn.
Modifying a top for a larger body without changing the shoulder width. The sides pivot out from the top of the armscye, and the body is slashed and spread for the fullness needed.
A French dart takes out extra width in the lower body, but her pattern piece is too wide for most fabric widths. It will fit crossgrain (this time), which works as long as the crossgrain has comparable stability to the straight-of-grain.
I was going to give sample layouts for the common U.S. fabric widths, than figured I’d better check.
Research reveals that pattern widths for North America, Europe, Asia, and Australia/New Zealand vary widely; there are other countries where I couldn’t find feedback.
- For an established pattern, commercially printed or one’s own block, go by the printed yardage given or experience. “They always tell me to buy too much!” They have to bump it up to allow for shrinkage in pretreatment, which they have no way of knowing.
- OR Take your physical pattern to the store and lay it out on the fabric, being scrupulously careful to get the pieces on grain, and adding estimated shrinkage (no point in pinning it as it will need to be washed or cleaned before cutting). Be thoughtful of the sales staff and aim for a less busy time. Record your specs – I write them on a large pattern piece, usually the front, in a red box to make them easier to spot.
- OR Wrap the fabric around the body. Helper(s) can keep the loose cloth from dragging on the ground. If the fabric is equally stable cross-grain, you can rotate the layout 90°.
If Carlee folds over an end of the bolt, she can wrap it past her side seams around the fullest part of her body. She can use this fabric.
How much should she buy?
She needs one generous length each for the front and back and two lengths of sleeves (one front and one back per sleeve due to the width of her arm). One length plus one set of sleeves is 2 1/3 yards, so 4 2/3 rounded up to 5 yards.
She also needs fabric for the cuffs and facings, and for how much the fabric will shrink in pretreatment.
Here’s an actual loose layout using a single-layer, directional format (if the fabric is folded, same amount). We can see it could be tightened up enough to get out of five yards and still have enough extra for shrinkage.
Pretreat your fabric!
Always lay out your entire pattern before starting to cut!