Elastic-Waist Pants: the Pattern

(next) Elastic-Waist Pants: Laying Out, Cutting and Sewing

These are loose-fitting pants with a cut-on, fold-over waistband (yes, same as PJs). To get more ease around the body we’ll move the side seams out: how much is your decision. If you’re making them of a lightweight, stretchy jersey you may decide you don’t need more ease than is built into your muslin. Notice that there’s a slight taper in on my fronts at the waist, but we’re adding enough that I’ll be able to easily get them over my hips.

Trace the front and back on pieces of paper – they must be long enough for 2+ folds over the elastic at the waist, and the full length of a pair of pants you like (or measure to the floor). Ignore the darts; run the side seams straight up from the hip.
These pants’ legs look very narrow; remember that Virginia was a little slip of a thing. Here’s a common range of pants back pieces.

The following steps can be done in any order.
1. Move the side seams out for a roomier fit. 1/2″ / 1.5 cm is ample as that adds total ease of 2″ / 5 cm.
2. Get the length to the hem from current pants. Square up to the upper thigh area. It’s okay if your first pair is wider and boxier than you’d prefer; it’s easy to take in the seams and adjust your pattern for the second+ pair.
3. Decide on your width of waist elastic and add two sections to make a self-fabric-fold-over waistband. Standard is 1″ // 2.5 cm. I am short-waisted and don’t carry much in my pockets that would pull the waist down so I sometimes use .75″ // 2 cm elastic.
If you don’t want pockets, add your seam allowances (next step) and you’re good to go. **PRE-SHRINK YOUR FABRIC**!

Label your pattern pieces! Label them right now!
1. Seam allowances are the standard 5/8″ // 1 cm unless otherwise noted.
2. Stitch-in-the-ditch for the fold-over elastic casing is about half of (1). *note:* the casing extension is squared up from the waistline. Do NOT taper it!
3. The little triangle at the back crotch fork can be trimmed as long as you leave a bit at the point. 4. The hem is usually 1.25″ // 3 cm. It’s better to overcut the length on your first pair.

Rather than extend the top of the pants to fold over the elastic as a self-casing, you may choose to cut a separate waistband. This is particularly useful when the waistline is curved or angled. The waistband is the front + the back x2.

Resist the temptation to cut the waistband vertically: fabrics often shrink (jeans and linens are notorious: five washings or more). This is the common reason waistbands grow tighter and tighter with wear.

Note that the wobbly lines have been straightened.

Slap your pattern against your body and put your hand where it would go in a pocket.
1. Trace around it.
2.Measure around the fullest part of your knuckles – make a loop of your tape and be sure your hand fits easily through it.

1. Sketch in the pocket shape, being sure that there’s a little scoop where the pocket bottom joins the side seam so that it can turn to the inside.
2. The opening in the side seam must be big enough for your knuckles if you want to put your hand in it.
3. The top of the pocket must extend past the waistline so it’s caught when the waistband is sewn.
4. The pocket piece doesn’t show (as it would in a slant pocket), so its grainline is adjusted so that its weight is better supported from its top. Its longer curved side is scooped a little to minimize fabric layers over the stomach while its top is wide enough that the pocket will be supported.

Pockets can be cut and seamed on or cut as one with the fronts/backs. To alter the pattern for cut-on (your fabric must be wider), overlap the seam lines on the pocket edge and the outseam. When sewn, diagonal clips will be made so that the pocket will turn to the inside.

There must be a matching pocket piece added to the back. If you are putting a pocket on only one side, it’s easy to get confused. Hold your pattern pieces up on your body before finalizing (this is the sad voice of experience).

(next) Crotch Master to Elastic-Waist Pants: Laying Out, Cutting and Sewing

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